My daughter’s selfie of us taken at the hospital. Not even pain can silence the aesthete within her.
ο εστέτ μέσα δεν κοιμάται ποτέ
(foto by Chiara Pilar © )
My daughter’s selfie of us taken at the hospital. Not even pain can silence the aesthete within her.
ο εστέτ μέσα δεν κοιμάται ποτέ
(foto by Chiara Pilar © )
The Dude & I are book addicts. We periodically raid our favorite bookstore, the Feltrinelli’s near Piazza della Repubblica.
The Dude chauffeurs me on his scooter (the only way to get around Rome) so I just hold on, sit back and pretend to be a tourist on a cheap version of a double decker tour bus.
Rome is a city that keeps the eye in motion.
Not far from Feltrinelli’s is the church of Santa Maria della Vittoria, the residence of Bernini ‘s Ecstasy of St Teresa . And across the street is the Fountain of Moses also known as the Acqua Felice aqueduct. Built in the late 1550s, it’s statue of Moses wears a nice pair of horns.
Just further down the block is the Grand Hotel (the entrance is where the flags are waving). It faces the now defunct Feltrinelli’s International Bookstore.
The big display windows of the now defunct Feltrinelli’s International bookstore are covered with paper to hide the emptiness within. What’s left of Feltrinelli’s is further down the block still on the right where the red signs are.
Right before reaching Piazza della Republic is mainstream Feltrinelli’s with the international books jammed in a little corner. Notice the streets made of sampietrini.
Inside Feltrinelli’s from the little jammed corner.
Every time we ride past the closed international store, it breaks my heart. I can’t help thinking that, had it not been for Giangiacomo Feltrinelli, the world would not have known about Doctor Zhivago and his love for Lara.
(Feltrinelli’s Doctor Zhivago bookcover via Wikipedia)
For years Boris Pasternak (1990-1960) had been working on Doctor Zhivago. But he didn’t finish it until 1956. The Soviets, however, did not consider the book “publishable” because it rejected socialist realism and contained some blatantly anti-Soviet passages.
In 1956, an Italian communist journalist went to work in the Soviet Union. Publisher and fellow communist Giangiacomo Feltrinelli employed the journalist to look for Soviet literature that would be appealing to Western audiences.
The Italian journalist discovered Pasternak and offered to have Doctor Zhivago published but the Soviets had other ideas. They didn’t even want the manuscript to leave the country. Feltrinelli, determined to publish the book, helped smuggle the book out of Russia as if it were top secret military microfilm.
Once out of the country, the book had to be translated and was finally released in 1958. For 26 weeks it was at the top of the New York Times’ bestseller list. To keep from getting big headed about so much success, a friend of Pasternak’s said that it was the Russian people and their suffering who’d created the book, not him.
Now every time we go by the emptied International Feltrinelli’s, I think of Pasternak and how Giangiacomo, with courage and conviction, took major risks to publish a masterpiece that might not have been published otherwise. It makes me sad to see the Feltrinelli vacancy. It makes me sad to know that the vacancy is not just physical. It makes me sad to know that there are more people willing to ban books than to read them. It makes me sad to know that 21% of Americans are functionally illiterate (source).
But buying a bunch of books helps the sadness fade away.
-30-
Related:
The above Feltrinelli’s is located here: Via Vittorio Emanuele Orlando 84, Roma.
Fontana dell’Acqua Felice, A monumental fountain in Rome features a large statue of Moses that has been criticized for centuries +
Boris Paternak (1890 –1960) +
Roma Pittrice is an exhibition celebrating the women artists who, between the 16th and 19th centuries, lived and worked in Rome.
Some of the artists include: Artemisia Gentileschi, Lavinia Fontana, Angelika Kaufman, Emma Gaggiotti, Maia Felice Tibaldi Subleyras, Laura Piranesi, Marianna Candidi Dionigi, Louise Seidler, Giovanna Garzoni, Giustiniana Guidotti, Ida Botti, Amalia De Angelis.
The exhibition, which ends March 23, is held at what was once Palazzo Braschi and Mussolini’s headquarters. Today it is the Museo di Roma.
In Rome, setting is often an integral part of the exhibition. The minute you walk in the door, you feel the need to start taking photos. The architecture often competes with the exhibition.
In Rome the eyes are always travelling!
painted garlands above me
People in the Sky like Diamonds

a photo of Emma Gaggiotti‘s studio in Rome at via Gregoriano no. 5
The room with many of the portraits was very dark.
installation Portrait Room
an aternative installation view
photo with Charlotte Bonaparte‘s painted selfie
The painting to the right of the door is that of Bertel Thorvaldsen. Thorvaldsen (1770-1844) was a Danish sculptor who lived most of his life in Rome. His home is now a museum.
The small bust across from the painting is Thorvaldsen’s bust of Maria Sofia Angelica Massani.
“Saggio dell’Anno Primo” by Rosa Mezzera. Rosa was the first female student at the Academy of Fine Arts in Milan (where I taught in the mid-90s).
Two small paintings by Erminia De Sanctis. Above “Studio di frutta” (c. 1890) and below “Una vittima innocente” (an innocent victim) (1870-1890).
Standing in between two ladies painted by Artemisia Gentileschi–Cleopatra on the right and Aurora on the right. They are beautiful but the floor tiles had me intrigued.
“Aurora” by Artemisia Gentileschi
The photos are sad and gloomy. I finally got a smart phone and still have not learned how to properly use it.
a blurred foto of my legs in front of the fireplace because I feel like being silly
(to be continued but I don’t know when)
(Lavagna Ladies 2024)

Related:
Bertel Thorvaldsen and the Danish Artists in Rome +
Guglielmo De Sanctis, Ritratto di Erminia De Sanctis, 1860 ca. pdf