Every third Sunday of the month, there’s an outdoor book market under the porticoes of Piazza Vittorio in Rome.

Porticoes are one of Turin’s most distinctive architectural features. It’s said that King Victor Emmanuel I (1759-1824) wanted to take a stroll every day despite the weather. So he asked the royal architect for a solution and, violà, porticoes.

So why did Rome copy the porticoes?

Before it’s unification, Italy was just a hodgepodge of powers competing for attention. The north was dominated by the House of Savoy. The House helped fight for the unification of Italy and, when the country was finally unified, the Savoian king from Sardinia, Victor Emmanuel II, became united Italy’s first monarch.

Victor Emmanuel II was born in Turin and, after he became King of Italy, Turin became Italy’s capital. But that changed in 1870 when Rome was finally part of the unification and became the new capital. This meant that the bluebloods from the north had to move south. They did so bringing their aesthetics standards with them. And for this reason, the Piedmontese vibe was highly present in Rome.

Since Italy was a new nation, they had to create a new identity to go with it. And architecture could help with that. It was decided that a big square should be made in the center of Rome. This meant tearing down a bunch of villas to create space for a porticoed square. The square, now known as Piazza Vittorio, was designed by the architect, Gaetano Koch, and represents the “stile umbertino“.

“Stile Umbertino” has sometimes been called Italy’s Renaissance Revival. But it’s actually the Italian version of Eclectism, a style that mixes different elements of different historical times. It takes its name from King Umberto I of Savoy who reigned over the Kingdom of Italy from 1878-1900. The stile umbertino prefers classical proportions, ornate decorations, and monumental grandeur.

Beyond the fence is what remains of Villa Palombara. Villa Palombara was once the luxurious residence of the Marquis Massimiliano Savelli Palombara, an alchemist and lover of esotericism.

It was still early so not all book stalls had been set up.

Picture Postcards from the past

patchwork mosaics

This is the entrance to the Nicola Calipari Garden.

The park at Piazza Vittorio is known as the Nicola Calipari Garden in honor of Nicola Calipari, an Italian major and intelliegence officer who was, accidentally, killed in Iraq by American soldiers while trying to help the recently released hostage, journalist Giuliana Sgrena, get to the Baghdad airport. His death created a serious dipolmatic incident.

When the bullits started attacking them, Calipari threw himself on Sgrena to protect her. Her life was saved but his was not. Calipari’s courage transformed him into a national hero.

The garden is lovely and green but the grass is a bit overgrown.

People in the park doing Tai Chi together.

A mosaic mural entitled “L’Albero delle Identità” (video in the making HERE) meant to prepresent the multi-ethnic neighborhood.

porticato from the garden

During the excavations done during the square’s constrution, large burial pits were discovered. These “common field” graveyards were burial sites for criminals and slaves.

Is this a Mexican Bush Sage?

Palms near the remains of Villa Palombara

The fountain in the foreground is the Fontana del Glauco created by Mario Rutelli, sculptor and grandfather of the ex-mayor of Rome, Francesco Rutelli. This sculptural group was originally intented for the Fountain of the Naiads at Piazza della Republica but didn’t quite fit in so it was moved to Piazza Vittorio.

Because of its somewhat chaotic composition, the fountain is often called “fritto misto”, a term used for mixed fried fish. But its named after Glaucus, a prophetic sea-god. Glaucus was a mortal but became immortanl after eating a special herb.

Behind Rutelli’s fountain is what’s left of the nymphaeum “Trofeì di Mario.” “From his basement laboratory, built in 1653 to pursue his alchemic interests, the Marquis of Palombara could gaze upon the ruins of the Nymphaeum of Alexander also erroneously called Trophies of Marius. The laboratory was accessed through a secondary portal, called the Magic Door, which sadly is all that remains of that magic palace today, since it was all demolished in 1880, to make way for the construction of the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II.” via ancient origins

The marble monument seen here is a war memorial that, for some reason, was placed near the Magic Door (Porta Magica) (seen in the background).

This structure is known by at least two names: Porta Magica (Magic Door) and Porta Alchemica (Alchemical Gate). It’s a wall with a door in the middle. The door is guarded by statues of the Egyptian god, Bes. This is all that remains of Marquis Oddo Savelli’s Villa Palombara. The door has many esoteric and kabbalistic symbols and inscriptions both in Hebrew and Latin. See November 24 and links below for more info.

statues

broken columns near the Magic Door

more palms

what a balcony!

Piazza Vittorio No. 70

I wanted a photo of this door as it related to my post Gadda’s Mess as well as Gadda’s Mess part II. Gadda was enchanted by “cronaca nera” (crime news) and read it religiously. One story in particular mesmerized him—the story of Angela Barrucca’s murder. His most famous novel, “Quer pasticciaccio brutto de via Merulana” (“That Awful Mess on the via Merulana“) is a story based on the Angela’s murder. Here, at no 70, Angela and here little boy were murdered by the Cataldi sisters.

From a distance it looks like a little cottage from a Hansel and Gretel story. But it’s actually a cafe called Horti Magici.

behind the bars

shadow selfie

anti-fascist poster and graffiti

In the background, the church of Sant’ Eusebio all’Esquilino.

Regoli is a 100 year old pastry shop and coffee bar (via dello Statuto 60). It must be good as there was a long line.

In the background, the church of Santa Maria Maggiore.

Palazzo Brancaccio, via Merulana

Palazzo Brancaccio initially hosted Giuseppe Tucci’s Oriental Art. but, in 2016, the museum’s collection became part of the Museo delle Civiltà located in the EUR area.

The original museum opened in 1958 and was intented to enhance research done on the Middle and Extreme Orient. Many objectys came from Tucci’s exploration of Tibet and Nepal.

Giuseppe Tucci (1894-1984) was an explorer, orientalist, and religious scholr. During his life, he was considered one of the most important Tibetologist in the world. Tucci was also a Freemason as well as a fascist. Mussoline helped subsidize some of his explorations. Tucci also kept a lifelong correspoonce with Mircea Eliade (1907-1986), Romanian scholar.

Tucci also collaborated with Fosco Maraini (1912-2004), an anthropoo9logist, orientalist, alpinist, photographer, anti-fascist, and once husband to artist Topazia Alliata and father of the writer Dacia Mairaini.

The builiding is now used for “events” such as weddings. It’s also used as a movie set location and was used for “Roman Holidays” in 1953.

Via Merulana no. 219 is the address Gadda used as the address for the protagonist in That Awful Mess on the via Merulana“. I was a bit surprised by the facade and wonder why Gadda chose it.

via Merulana no. 219

But a photo of this facade and plaque was necessary as it related to my post Gadda’s Mess as well as Gadda’s Mess part II. Gadda was enchanted by “cronaca nera” (crime news) and read it religiously. One story in particular mesmerized him—the story of Angela Barrucca’s murder. His most famous novel, “Quer pasticciaccio brutto de via Merulana”, is a story based on the Angela’s murder.

I bought this Gino Boccasile catalogue for E10. Overpriced. But if you go to an outdoor book market, you must buy at least one book.

pretty picture postcards

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Appropriations for AI will be jinxed.

Related:

In Vittorio de Sica’s “Bicylce Thieves“, the protagonist goes looking for his son’s stolen bike at Piazza Vittorio + Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, Rome ‘ + Piazza Vittorio: una meraviglia ormai ignorata +

The sacrifice of Nicola Calipari + Giardini Nicola Calipari di Piazza Vittorio +

Happy Counseling and Coaching, Roma +

Palazzo Merulana + Palazzo Merulana, little known museum +

The Enigmatic Pilgrim at the Magic Door of the Palace of Palombara + The Enigmatic Alchemical Gate in Rome + The Alchemical Door: Rome’s Most Enigmatic Portal to Ancient Mysteries +

see, too, the Porticoes of Bologna +