Truffles and Toulouse-Lautrec

A truly beautiful person is one who is good at discovering beauty. Daisaku Ikeda

For my birthday, on my FB timeline Franca posted a Daisaku Ikeda essay entitled “The Flowering of Creative Life Force”.  One phrase in particular really struck me:  “Never for an instant forget the effort to renew your life, to build yourself anew.”

And what is a birthday if not the celebration of one’s own renewal?

The joy of creating one’s life is often neglected because, for one reason or another, we abandon ourselves to the current.  But why abdicate our right to be the protagonist in our own life’s story?

she lived like a leaf floating in a stream

Every day we can re-create our life by the choices we make.

For my birthday, a lunch with truffles and a visit to the Toulous Lautrec exhibit at Ara Pacis—c. 170 lithographs (dating 1891-1900) from Budapest’s Museum of Fine Arts.

Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec , born in 1864, came from an aristocratic family.  His parents, busy bickering with one another, continually left Lautrec in the care of a nanny. Lautrec was also traumatized by congenital health problems which prohibited proper healing when he broke the femur bones of both legs. Thus Lautrec developed an adult-sized torso whereas his legs remained like those of a child.  Unable to dedicate himself to physical activities, he turned to drawing and painting.

For awhile he signed his paintings “Lost” because “Toulouse” sounds like “to lose”. But, anxious to find his way, subsidized by his mother, he moved to Paris and set up studio in Montmartre. And it was here that his career as an artist took form.

Moulin Rouge

The Pigalle/Montmartre area was populated by anarchists, petty thieves, starving artists, socially wounded women, and, in general,  people who were defeated, lost, and emotionally scattered. And for those who feel they have nothing to lose, transgression becomes a part of life.

The bored rich, hoping to wake themselves up, were intrigued by transgression and thus  Pigalle became the mecca of their pleasure & diversion.

Maybe being surrounded by the marginalized distracted Lautrec from his own handicap. He was particularly drawn to the  Moulin Rouge.  Much of his inspiration came from the women who worked there.

Jane Avril

can-can or st. vitus dance?

When the Moulin Rouge hired Lautrec to do a poster for their club, the dancer featured was Jane Avril. Jane was a bit strange.  Her abused childhood led to a nervous disorder that caused Jane to move in a jerky and contorted way This disorder, commonly known as St. Vitus Dance, forced her to check into a hospital for the mentally ill. But this disorder was the basis of her wild and wonderful  ecstatic dancing that helped her get a job at the Moulin Rouge.

Jane was radically thin, fond of fashion, determined to become a star, intelligent and aloof and extravagant in her ways. Lautrec liked her a lot and the two spent much time together.

Eventually age nerved her out so, at the age of 42, she decided to marry the German artist, Maurice Biais and the two moved to the outskirts of Paris. Unfortunately, her husband had an ambiguous sexuality and spent much time roaming around in search of himself. When he died in 1926, he left Jane penniless and she struggled to survive until her death in 1943 at the age of 75.

La Goulue

La Goulue

Her real name was Louise Weber but she was known as La Goulue, The Glutton, because of her habit of consuming customers’ drinks while dancing around their tables.  At an early age, she mastered the quadrille but her real talent was the can-can, a dance involving high kicks and the lifting of skirts. The name “can-can” means, more or less, “tittle-tattle” and initially created quite a scandal. But in some ways it was an manifestation of the need for social change because it questioned the concept of respectability. Lautrec adored the dance and said  La vie est belle, voila le quadrille!  (Life is beautiful, here comes the can-can!)

Her audacious behavior was captivating and La Goulue lost no time in becoming the Queen of Montmartre. She enjoyed kicking her legs up high enough to knock off men’s hats  thus  exposing the heart embroidered on her panties.  The audiences adored her but it went to her head as she decided to leave the Moulin Rouge and start her own dance company. It was a mistake that left her bankrupt and depressed.  So she began drinking and soon was too fat to kick up her legs.  La Goulue spent the last years of her life toothless, homeless, standing on a street corner near the Moulin Rouge selling matches and peanuts.  Wouldn’t she be happy to know that Brian Ferry sings about her in “Do The Strand”.

Yvette Guilbert

Yvette Guilbert

Yvette Guilbert was a singer, actress and song writer. Her slightly sleazy songs were half sung, half spoken earning her the title of the “diseuse fin de siècle” (end of the century storyteller). She was lanky and easily recognized by the long black gloves she wore.

Yvette was friends with Sigmund Freud.  They met after Freud, in Paris for a convention, heard her sing.  The two enjoyed corresponding for a number of years until Freud wrote that her talent as an interpreter came from “repressed desires and traits that haven’t had a chance to develop.”  Yvette was not pleased and their relationship chilled for several years.

Le passager dans la cabine 54

Most all of the women Lautrec portrayed were Montmartre style. However, in  August 1895 while on a cruise from Le Havre to Bordeaux, Lautrec became infatuated with a young woman from cabin 54 and secretly photographed  her as she sat languidly and read.

 The artist is often a voyeur.

Because of his handicap, Lautrec was active with his eyes and not with his body.  While others participated, he sat back as spectator. Thus he became an expert in observation noting details yet capable of distinguishing the superfluous from the essential.

While most of Lautrec’s fellow artists were involved in Impressionism thus plein air painting, his handicap kept him indoors. Instead of landscapes, Lautrec focused on people drawing them continuously.  And, as he once wrote his mother, he considered going to the caffès every evening as work because it was there that he diligently sketched the people who populated his paintings.

The posters Lautrec began making for the Moulin Rouge and other clubs and theaters gave a definite direction to his artistic style and the graphic needs of a publicity poster were integrated into his art. An affiche must go straight to the point thus– incisive, bold colors, large surfaces, and big enough to be seen from afar.

In the late 1890s when Lautrec was making these posters, there was no digital printing. Lithography was used to make multiples.  So Lautrec became an expert lithographer.  The technical demands of lithography led Lautrec to become an expert in simplification and immediacy.

l'argent

For example, the lithograph “L’Argent, Programme de Theatre”  shows how, with the minimum of gesture, Lautrec gave the maximum of information. Look how he used a few short lines to transform a blotch of color into a coat. Genius!

Towards A Photogenic Lifestyle Observation: I can renew my life every day and it can be relatively easy if I can learn how to get the maximum from the minimum. But learning how may take time.

As a result of his absinthe and brandy cocktails, Toulouse-Lautrec died in 1901 at the age of 36.

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Related links:  The Flowering of Creative Life Force + Toulouse-Lautrec at Museo dell’Ara Pacis + La Goulue, brief video + Yvette Guilbert, Quand on vous aime comme ça + Toulouse-Lautrec and Jane Avril at the Moulin Rouge + Pitié-Salpêtrière was the dumping grounds for women who received the dreaded diagnosis of “hysterical”

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Inspiration or Appropriation?

Paris Day 4

In the past few months I’ve come across various articles where known fashion designers have been accused of “cultural appropriation”.  Below are a few examples:

His Sweater Looked Like Her Sweater

Shetland Islanders, known for their Nordic style fishermen’s sweaters,  claim that Chanel stole their knitting patterns.  After representatives of Chanel appeared on the island and bought some of her sweaters,  Mati Ventrillon noticed that black and white designs she created  for the Queen’s Jubilee 2012 appeared on the catwalk of Chanel’s Metiers d’Art a few months ago.

His Culture Had Been Appropriated

The Nunavut family has a similar complaint. Qingailisag, an Inuit shaman, in the 1920s designed a caribou skin parka covered with sacred designs meant to offer spiritual protection to the wearer (Franz Boas even wrote about them). Qingailisag’s descendents are quite upset that these designs have been copied by designer Kokon To Zai for a sweater selling for $840.

Designs of Santa Maria Tlahuitoltepec Are Everywhere

French Designer Isabel Marant has recently been criticized for having copied the designs of Santa Maria Tlahuitoltepec’s traditional costume that’s been around for over 600 years. What’s even more bizarre is that another designer, Antik Batik, is using the same designs thus claiming that Marant has “copied” her. And even more surrealistic is a recent press release from a Mexican news agency saying that Marant was issued a patent from the French government for these designs.  Thus if the indigenous people of Oaxaca want to use their own designs, they must pay copyright fees to the French designer. Marant, however, denies the existence of this patent.

So what does all of this have to do with Paris? Because today I went to the Musée Quai Branly, the anthropological museum featuring the indigenous art of Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas.

French presidents have the tradition of sponsoring some museum or monument while in office and this was the project of Jacques Chirac. The museum, which faces the Seine and is next to the Eiffel Tower, was actualized using collections of previous museums (including the Trocadéro Ethnographic Museum).

Many of these objects were accumulated during French colonization (including that of North America).

The museum is beautiful and sometimes overwhelming.  It took me a couple of hours to slide through it all making an effort not to be a victim of a Syndrome of Stendhal attack. And when I left the museum, I said to myself: Cubism exists thanks to African art.

They Both Liked The Same Statue

One day in 1906 while on his way to visit Gertrude Stein, Matisse stopped in a little curio shop and bought a small Vili figure from Congo.  He showed the figure to Gertrude as well as to Picasso who was also there.  Picasso pretended not to be interested but later made frequent visits to the Trocadéro. And, not long afterwards, painted Les Demoiselles d’Avignon (1907) which many historians believe  gave birth to Cubism. “Avignone” does not refer to the French town but to the name of a street in Barcelona famous for its prostitutes.

They Lived On Avignone Street

Picasso said “good artists copy, great artists steal” which is exactly what he did.

Kiki With African Mask

Man Ray was another artist who fell in love with African art.  One of his most famous photos, Noire et Blanche, shows Kiki of Montparnasse holding a small African mask.

Andre Breton's Apartment

André Breton, known as the father of Surrealism, began living in an apartment on rue Fontaine 42 (Pigalle district) in 1921.  His whole house was a Cabinet of Curiosities—more than 5,300 objects of interest. Breton died in 1966 but his wife continued to live there until her death.  Rue Fontaine contained the largest known collection of the Surrealist movement but the government was unwilling to buy it.  So Breton’s daughter, Aube, was forced to break up the collection and sale it piece by piece.  All that’s left is a “look alike” wall at Centre Pompidou, “Le Mur de l’Atelier”,  which includes a number of African masks.

Her Face Was Like A Mask

Modigliani, like Picasso, often visited the Trocadéro finding much inspiration from the Ivory Coast’s  Baule masks with their elongated faces, arched eyebrows and lazily opened eyes.

With the aid of a wheelbarrow, Modigliani scavenged stones from Parisian construction sites then sculpted heads resembling those of African goddesses.

Why Not Make Some Art?

In 1984, the art world went into a spin because of three carved heads found in a canal in Livorno, Modigliani’s hometown. Many experts claimed that they were works by Modigliani who, in 1909 after receiving negative reviews, dumped them in the Fosso Reale. Instead, with the help of a Black & Decker drill, they were made by three pranksters and local artist and activist, Angelo Froglia.

An appropriation is an appropriation is an appropriation.

vertical garden

Next door to Musée Quai Branly is a Vertical Garden by Patrick Blanc.

Related link: Native Appropriations is a forum for discussing representations of Native peoples, including stereotypes, cultural appropriation, news, activism, and more.

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Stories set in stone

Paris Day 3

The Leaves Were Falling

Paris is lovely in November.  I love walking on the fallen leaves especially when the sun is shining so I decided to walk along the Seine listening to “Les Feuilles Mortes”  (known in English as “Autumn Leaves”).  The lyrics of this song were written by Surrealist poet and screenwriter, Jacques Prévert: The falling leaves drift by the window…Since you went away the days grow long And soon I’ll hear old winter’s song.

Maigret at Canal St. Martin

My plan for the day was to head towards Canal Saint-Martin and see the area that had inspired so many of Alfred Sisley’s paintings. The canal also appears in the film Amélie (where she’s skipping stones at the locks) and in Simenon’s Maigret and the Headless Corpse (Maigret et le corps sans tête) where a chopped up corpse is found in the canal.

Somehow I got distracted and, instead, took a long walk along the Seine and then back towards Notre Dame. Two things I noted with interest: one,  many architects have carved their names on the building they’ve constructed just as a painter signs a painting. Two, all around Paris you can see the city’s coat of arms, a ship floating on a rough sea, with the inscription Fluctuat nec mergitur which basically means “tossed but not sunk”.

Fluctuat nec mergitur

NOTRE DAME

Victor Hugo was only 29 years old when, in 1831, The Hunchback of Notre-Dame was published. The tragic story is that of the gypsy dancer, Esméralda, and the hunchback, Quasimodo. Esméralda falls obsessively in love with the wrong guy, Captain Phoebus (much like the story of Hugo’s daughter, Adele, and her fixation with Lieutenant Pinson that led to her complete mental breakdown).  Because of her beauty, men wanted Esméralda’s body not her being.  All except Quasimodo.

Esméralda is accused of crimes she didn’t commit and hung in public for the crowds to see.  Quasimodo, seeing her hanging and knowing his step-father, Frollo is responsible, decides to vindicate Esméralda and pushes Frollo off the roof of Notre-Dame.

frollo and quasimodo

A major theme in Hugo’s story is the contrast between the grotesque and the sublime. Hugo wrote The Hunchback while Notre Dame was being restored (1843–1864) under the direction of Violette-le-Duc, an architect fixated with the grotesque. In fact, the gargoyles (which are really chimera) were added at this time and not during the period of the original construction of the cathedral. Working for Violette-le-Duc during the restoration was a hunchback sculptor who, some speculate, inspired Hugo’s Quasimodo. He was known as Mon Le Bossu, the hunchback.

Can you imagine Le Bossu sculpting a gargoyle?

He Made Monsters

I tried reading some of Notre Dame’s narrative relief sculptures. Of particular interest was that of the Virgin’s portal (first portal of the façade) with its ménage à trios—Adam, Eve and Lilith. Here Lilith is represented as a melusine, snake-woman.

Lilith is a Jewish mythological figure whose name roughly translates as “night creature” and, according to some folklore, was considered Adam’s first wife. Apparently, Lilith left Adam because she didn’t like his domineering attitude in and out of the bedroom.  So she started an affair with archangel turned demon, Samael.

Not wanting Adam to be left alone, God then created Eve.

Adam, Eve, & Lilith. ménage à trois

Towards A Photogenic Lifestyle Observation: I’ve never been attracted to the grotesque.  However, turning fears into picture postcards is a real talent. So how do I learn to make something spooky in my life photogenic?

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related links:  Iggy Pop, Les Feuilles MortesJacques Prévert was a French poet and screenwriter + Maigret and the hotel Majestic full video + The Hunchback of Notre-DameThe Lilith Myth + Amelie skipping stones 0:13 + Real-life Quasimodo uncovered in Tate archives+ The Story of Adele H. (1975) Trailer +  The Virgin Mary portal
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Paris as a Cabinet of Curiosities

Paris Day 2

Mindfulness is important if you want to have a photogenic lifestyle because it means being present in the here and now.  Once we eliminate our dependence on cognitive clichés, the world around us pulsates with vigor and energy.

Curiosity automatically leads to mindfulness.

Cabinet of Curiosities

Because of Bebina Bunny, I wanted to see what remains of Joseph Bonnier de la Mosson’s  Cabinet of Curiosities. Once upon a time, aristocrats did not manifest their wealth by wearing a Rolex or by driving a Ferrari.  Instead, they created Cabinets of Curiosities.  Thus Joseph Bonnier de la Mosson used most of his incredible inheritance to create his own wunderkammer full of objects relating to natural history, anatomy, science, fine arts and souvenirs from his world travels. When Bonnier de la Mosson died in 1744, he was penniless so his widow had to sell pieces from the collection for her own survival.  Luckily, some parts were saved and are now hidden away in the modern library of Jardin des Plantes’ Natural History Museum.

Jarden des Plantes

Adjacent to Jardin des Plantes’ main entrance is the Grand Mosque of Paris. The mosque was built in 1926 to honor the Muslim soldiers from the French colonies who’d lost their lives fighting for the French against the Germans in WWI. And during WWII, the mosque was used as a refuge for Jews to protect them from German persecution.

Mosque Tearoom

Today the mosque is well-known for its hamman, indoor garden and tearoom straight out of Casablanca.  It would have been delightful to have had some tea and pastries but it was crowded and people were lined up waiting for a table.

Patria Stood In The Middle

Our touristic pilgrimage continued towards the Panthéon (from the Greek Πάνθεον meaning “every god”) which was originally built as a church dedicated to St. Genevieve (the patron saint of Paris). The Panthéon’s pediment shows Patria distributing crowns.  She’s flanked by Liberty and History as well as by other figures, including Napoleon, who contributed to the development of the Nation.

Subsequently the Panthéon became a mausoleum for famous French citizens. Revolutionary leader Jean-Paul Marat, today best known for his presence in Jacques-Louis David’s painting, is buried here.

Marat in the Tub

Because of a skin condition he’d developed while hiding in sewers, Marat was forced to bathe a lot.  So he transformed his tub into a kind of desk where he’d soak for hours while writing down his political theories. One day while he was bathing, 24 year old Charlotte Corday sneaked into his bathroom and stabbed him to death.

Charlotte was just beginning to blossom as a woman when the French Revolution broke out.  She saw nothing liberating about the aftermath of the Revolution and its atrocities.  Believing Marat to be a blood thirsty monster who sent innocent people to their graves, she felt that by murdering him  she could save 100,000s of lives.

A young German living in Paris, Adam Lux, was so impressed by the actions of Charlotte that he fell in love with her.  He followed her trial and was present when she was beheaded. Adam saw Charlotte as a martyr and wrote a pamphlet in her defense which led to his arrest for treason. Tried, he was told he could save his life if he would retract what he’d written but he just smiled and thanked the judges because he was honored to be sacrificed on the same guillotine where Charlotte had met her death.

Charlotte and Adam

Charlotte was from Normandy and so were the cheeses we had in our fondue that evening at a little bistrot near Beaubourg– fondue Normandie made with Camembert and Pont-l’Évêque.  Fondue is very photogenic as well as very easy to do. Since good health is also photogenic, it’s best to eat cheese with discretion. Fondue is basically just a kind of hot dip so why not try making it using cashews, potatoes or chickpeas instead of cheese?

They Had Fondue For Dinner

Related:  Al Stewart song for Charlotte on album on “Famous Last Words” + book Beware Madame la Guillotine by Sarah Towle + Mindfulness by Ellen J. Langer + Object Lesson / Transitional Object + Cashew Cheese Fondue

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Yin Yang Paris

Paris Day 1

He Washed The Streets

I was lucky to be staying near the Beaubourg—well-kept, washed and painted.  Looking out my window this morning, I saw the maintenance going on and the streets being scrubbed down…cleanliness is a form of aesthetics and helps keep Paris one of the most tourist visited cities in the world.

The day got off to a slow start but eventually we headed towards the 1st arrondissement. Because of her photogenic lifestyle, Coco Chanel’s house on 31 Rue Cambon  was on my list of things to see.

31 rue Cambon

Here she opened her first boutique in 1910 and sold hats before designing dresses. Coco actually lived at the Ritz Hotel but worked and entertained at Rue Cambon where she sprayed the place with Chanel No. 5 everytime she entered. The famous faceted mirrored staircase designed by Coco connected all four levels of the building.  It was said she conceived the staircase so that while standing on one floor she could see what was happening on the others.

Coco's Staircase

I wonder if Coco had been inspired by Duchamp’s 1912 Nude Descending a Staircase, No. 2  (inspired by Muybridge’s photo sequence Woman Walking Downstairs).

MarcelDuchamp-Nudedescendingastaircaseno21912

Not Far From Rue Cambon 31

We then went to another Chanel location in between La Madeleine and Place Vendôme where a very désagréable doorman provoked our desire to change location.  There was nothing elegant about his behavior. Furthermore, Coco’s 1st arrondissement is majestic but condescending.  So we went towards Belleville.

Napoleon III, Napoleon’s nephew and the first President of France to be elected by popular vote, wanted a modern and imperial Paris. So, with the help of Baron Haussmann, instigated an urban revolution.  The tearing down of the old to construct the new meant that many of the poorer classes had to leave Paris and find new lodgings on the city’s outskirts. Thus many headed towards Belleville.

Belleville and Ménilmontant were once independent wine-making villages where Parisians would spend Sundays at the guinguettes dancing and drinking tax-free wine. Renoir captured the spirit of these guinguettes in his “Luncheon of the Boating Party” (1880).

renoir

Famous French singer Edith Piaf was born, legend has it,  in a doorway at Ménilmontant (72 rue de Belleville).  Edith’s mother was a street singer and part-time prostitute whereas her father was a Moroccan acrobat. Edith spent much of her childhood singing in the streets with her father.  It was their only source of income. And the way Edith learned to sing.

When Edith was about 5 years old, she went blind but the prostitutes who worked for her grandmother collected money to sent her on a pilgrimage honoring St. Térèse of Lisieux.  Edith regained her sight and became a devotee of St. Térèse for the rest of her life.

In 1935 Edith was discovered in Pigalle by the owner of a nightclub, Louis Leplée. It was because of him that Edith became famous.

Editha Piaf and Her Museum

Not far from the Lachaise cemetery where she’s buried is the privately owned Edith Piaf Museum ( 5, rue Crespin du Gast) full of memorabilia—clothing, shoes, letters, photos, and even an image of St. Térèse of Lisieux.

Menilmontant and Belleville

Daniel Pennac’s books based in Belleville made the neighborhood seem magical and full of intrigue and pathos.  As opposed to the Latin Quartier and Saint Germain where you can buy only clothes and shoes, says Pennac, “Belleville remains a living district, not fossilized by commerce.”

Towards A Photogenic Lifestyle Observation: for years Belleville was shunned and avoided by the mainstream. Then Pennac‘s books transformed Belleville into a watercolor.  Shabby became chic and the dreary became dynamic.

I would like to write about my daily life with the same spirit Pennac wrote about Belleville.  Better yet, I would like to give my diary to a talented writer to see if, using description and editing, he could turn my life into a bestseller. Better yet, I would like to learn how to do it myself.

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