Pietro Citati & Cristina Campo

The summer of 1993, I was in Venice for the Biennale. For the train ride back to Tuscany, I’d been given a first-class ticket and eagerly went to my compartment. There was still some time before departure so I sat and looked out the window. On the platform in front of me, I recognized Pietro Citati (1930-2022), a writer best known for his biographies and literary criticism. He’d also written a short memoir on his friendship of 30 years with Italo Calvino

drawing of a woman sitting on a train looking out the window seeing two people

I was rather surprised when Citati entered my compartment. He politely said “Buongiorno” before heading towards the window seat. Once there, he pulled out a notebook and started writing non-stop.

No one else was in the compartment so discreetly observing him was a problem. But he didn’t even notice me (or so I thought) as he was fully immersed in his writing. Every so often he would look up and stare into space. Then, ZAP! The muse was back and he’d quickly start writing again. Meanwhile, I pretended to read as I simultaneously pretended not to look at him. But it was a long ride and thus difficult to ignore one another.

Maybe I was the one who tried initiating a conversation with some comment like how intriguing it was to watch him write with such intensity. Citati’s response was that he’d been afraid of stepping on my feet when passing in front of me to get to his seat.

drawing of a shoe about to step on a foot

Citati talked but with a strong sense of reserve (he was Florentine). However, he did reveal, without ever saying his name, that he lived at Roccamare, was a writer, wrote every morning and walked every afternoon (or was it the other way around?). The area where he lived was near the sea and full of umbrella pines.

When we arrived at the destination, we politely said goodbye and then went our own ways.

book cover showing the profiles of Elsa de- Giorgi and Italo Calvino

Recently I read Elsa de’ Giorgi’s “Ho visto partire il tuo treno” (“I saw your train leave”). Elsa and Italo Calvino were lovers for a while and had many friends in common. Elsa mentions Citati various times. She describes him as having “occhi limpidi pieni di pensiero” (“clear eyes full of thought”).

Elsa, a writer herself, enjoyed organizing encounters at her home. She speaks of the time when Carlo Emilo Gadda came to stay in Rome. Gadda was a well-respected writer from Milano and the writers in Rome were behaving like groupies. Elsa says Citati encouraged her to take good care of Gadda and to make sure his needs were met.

Gadda and Citati became very good friends and for years corresponded. Gadda’s letters to Citati (1957-1969) were published as “Un gomitolo di concause” (“a tangle of contributing causes”). It must have been a very special relationship as, a few days before dying, Gadda asked Citati to read the 8th chapter of “Promessi sposi” to him. Bittersweet.

Elsa’s description of Citati provoked my curiosity. I found my copy of Citati’s “Ritratti di donne” (portraits of women)(1992) and leafed through it until I landed on the poetessa Cristina Campo (1923-1977).

drawing of the Portinari Madonna with baby Jesus, angels, and animals

Citati immediately complains about the woman on the bookcover of Cristina’s “Gli imperdonabili” having nothing to do with Cristina who was more like Hugo van der Goes “The Portinari Triptych” at the Uffizi. Mary is in the center of the triptych dressed in black with long hair floating on her shoulders. She’s kneeling in front of God with her hands folded. Citati also likens Cristina’s face to that of a 13th Cen Tuscan statue (you’d think he’d had a crush on her). Cristina, continues Citati, always emanated a sharp icy Florentine air, illuminated by a perpetually white light.

drawing of a room with an armshair, a desk, and an open window exposing the cypress trees outside

It’s easy to see that Citati was taken with Cristina’s physical presence and the aura she created. She was ephemeral and elusive, intriguing qualities for a man. Citati describes being invited to the room where she was staying in Rome and how Cristina took care to show Citati her elegant furniture, the small worktable, and an 1800s armchair. Everything about the room suggested cleanliness, precision, and asceticism. Cristina asked Citati if her room didn’t remind him of Emily, presumably Bronte.

To better understand Cristina and her poetry, it’s important to know that she was born with a heart defect that made demands on her daily life. Her fragile health kept her from attending a regular school. She studied alone and in isolation. Cristina used her solitude to translate authors like Katherine Mansfield, Virgina Woolf, Hugo von Hofmannsthal, and Simone Weil. Translating von Hofmannsthal and Weil had a profound effect on Cristina’s psyche and spiritual evolution.

drawing of trees outside a window

Cristina’s real name was Vittoria Maria Guerrini. Her father, Guido, despite his love of music, was a committed fascist who used politics for social and economic mobility. When Mussolini fell, so did he. When German officers took over the convent in Fiesole where Cristina was living with her family, Guido, instead of being irritated by their presence, enjoyed having long conversations with them. Meaanwhile, Cristina worked for the Germans as a translator.

In 1944, British troops liberated Florence. Guido was arrested as a fascist and sent to a prison camp. But once freed, he easily rebuilt his career.

Cristina, a devout Catholic, never hid her fascist connection. Nor did she hide her fear of democracy. Maybe because there’s no such thing as democracy in religion.

drawing of a woman holding a cross surrounded by gollums

In 1955, Cristina moved to Rome, a transition that had a tremendous effect on both her literary and spiritual evolution. For one, she began publishing her poetry and writing scripts for the RAI, Italy’s national radio and TV. And it was in Rome that she met Elèmire Zolla (1926-2002), writer, philosopher, and connoisseur of esoteric doctrines. Zolla’s marriage to the poetessa Mary Luisa Spaziani had recently ended.

Zolla introduced Cristina to mystical thought and esoteric doctrines. He also introduced her to Eastern religions including Zen and Hinduism. He took advantage of Cristina’s enthusiasm for the spiritual to help him write “I mistici dell’ Occidente” (the mystics of the west). And although Zolla was not a card-carrying fascist, his ideas easily aligned with far right and neo-Nazi philosophy. Julius Evola, a right wing intellectual and founder of esoteric fascism, was one of Zolla’s close friends.

drawing of a bookcover with a woman coming out from behind jagged pile of stone

Inside Cristina is an obsession. She burns her religion of form as if on a sacrificial pyre, says Citati. And she uses poetry to express this obsession.

I like the idea of poetry more than poetry itself. Their hermetically sealed meanings alienate me. How can you appreciate something you don’t understand. But let’s take a look at Cristina’s poem “Passo d’Addio” (Farewell Stop):

“neve era sospesa tra la

Notte e le strade

Come il destino tra la mano e il fiore.”

that roughly translated as:

“the snow hung between

The night and the streets

Like a destiny between the

Hand and the flower.”

To read the entire poem (in Italian), go HERE.

two people sitting with a cat covered by snow

Some scholars have interpreted the poem as being about a soul choosing to leave the limitations of worldly experience and human attachment to embark on a solitary and difficult path toward union with the divine. Cristina’s fragile health undoubtably influenced how she perceived life as something ephemeral. And if she was going to die early, she had to prepare her soul for departure.

Cristina hated the Vatican’s liberal reforms and was an activist for the reintroduction of the Latin liturgy. In post-war Florence, she enjoyed publicly praising Mussolini to passersby. Cristina was not at all progressive and detested anything that was modern. She considered the world an ugly place and thus had to look for meaning elsewhere. Such as in fairy tales and religion. Cristina, tormented by existential question, was restless within. And this often makes her sound too self-righteous and condescending.

Cristina could write about historic literature such as Shakespeare and Doctor Zhivago. But she also enjoyed writing about flying carpets and the religious practice of eating God to achieve communion (theophagy).

drawing of St. Anselmo's church on tree lined street

Cristina’s precarious health had simultaneously frightened and conditioned her. She’d chosen to live with her parents to feel more secure. But after the death of her parents, Cristina was so overwhelmed that she left the family home and moved into an apartment nest to the Benedictine Abbey of Sant’ Anselmo in Rome. She lived there until a heart attack ended her life. She was only 53.

Zolla also lived in the same apartment building as Cristina (#3 via Sant’ Anselmo near the Piazza Dei Cavalieri di Malta). In 1970, Zolla wrote the preface to the Italian edition of “The Lord of the Rings”. He portrayed Tolkien as a critic of modern chaos who used fantasy to arrive at the sacred. Zolla’s introduction to Lord was written in such a way that the neo-fascists easily identified with it. Even today, many right-wing politicians are Lord of the Rings fans. Even Italy’s prime minister is a devotee of Middle Earth and interweaves that fantasy in with Italian reality.

drawing of a man wearing a suit sitting at a table huggling a vase of flowers

Tolkien was not at all pleased with his book being used as some kind of Nazi bible. Some claimed that the problem was, in part, the way the book was translated. But probably what was most alluring about Tolkien’s book was that it emphasized traditionalism, a quality very important for the right as it was for Cristina Campo.

-30-

copyright symbol

Appropriations for AI will be jinxed.

Related:

bookcover with a woman on cover

Pietro Citati Wikipedia + Citati: “Lessi i Promessi Sposi a Gadda sul suo letto di morte” +

‘The Unforgivable’ and Other Writings by Cristina Campo + Two Faces of Catholic Traditionalism + Cristina Campo e le infinite corrispondenze + Cristina Campo ed Elémire Zolla: mistica e spiritualità nella svolta religiosa dei primi anni Sessanta via cristinacampo.it + Cristina Campo by Jaspreet Singh Boparai + The intransigence of grace. In memory of Cristina Campo, one hundred years after her birth +

Zolla: How The Lord of the Rings became a symbol for Italy’s far-right + Italian Anthroposophists and the Fascist Racial Laws + Prefazione di Elémire Zolla a Il Signore degli Anelli di J.R.R. Tolkien + Elémire Zolla, avversari metafisici nell’orbita del Kitsch +

Mario Luzi e Cristina Campo +

Screen shot from Dagospia showing Meloni Reading Lord of the Rings
Posted in Art Narratives, Books, Fascist Italy, Rome/Italy | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Mary Cane-Honeysett (1928-2016)

screen shot of Mary Cane Honeysett from youtube

Mary’s Last Masterpiece” is a tender documentary about Mary Cane-Honeysett (1936-2016), a self taught visual artist. At the time of the filming, Mary was 74 and living in Fulham, London, in the same house where she’d lived all her life. Despite her age, Mary had a goal: to participate in the Royal Academy’s summer exhibition. It’s an ideal that gave her life a direction.

colored drawing of a woman painting a canvas

Despite her annual entries, Mary’s paintings were never accepted by the Academy. When her son, Tony, wanted to make a documentary about her, Mary protested saying she didn’t have anything interesting to say and that her house was more interesting than she was. So Tony said, “Well then we’ll make the video about the house” and thus tricked his mom into believing that the film would be about the house.

colored drawing of a woman on her door steps next to a wound wrought iron railing

Mary’s house in Fulham was her anchor. After raising her kids and losing her husband, Mary focused on creating that one yearly painting to submit to the Academy. Her paintings were about Fulham and her neighborhood. She documented shops and buildings that were gradually disappearing to make room for the big and the new.

drawing of a woman sitting on a bus looking out the window

Mary’s efforts to create the painting that would get her into the exhibition are truly inspiring. Despite her age and the difficulties in getting around, she would take her finished paintings all wrapped in butcher paper on a tour of London using public transport just to have them mesured for the right kind of frame. Once the frame was selected, Mary would have it cut then take the wood home to make the frame herself. This meant hauling the wood for the frame as well as the painting itself back home again still using public transport.

colored drawing of an elderly woman carrying a wrapped painting

The year the video was made, Mary didn’t make it into the exhibition and, still using public transportation, had to go retrieve her rejected painting. Nevertheless, although rejected over and over again, Mary stayed true to herself and kept painting and kept entering the Academy competition every year.

Then Mary had a stroke and everything changed. She struggled to paint and when her hands started to tremble too much to keep a brush steady, she gave up trying.

drawing of  two thieves and an elderly woman pushing a pastry cart

But Mary was animated from within. As a young girl, she’d dreamed of being an actress. And, at the age of 81, Mary made her acting debut in “Edna Cloud”, a story about a fictional artist, Edna Cloud, who has robbers break into her house. The video was filmed by one son with the other son (as well as the grandson) participating as an actor. “Edna Cloud” is short, sweet, and amusing. It’s also an indication of how much her sons loved her.  And there’s no art exhibit that can surpass that kind of honor.

Mary’s story is just one more example of how ideals give you a direction.

icon with woman hold an x'd broom

I prefer to paint, she said.

-30-

Related: ART OF MARY CANE-HONEYSETT, PAINTINGS OF FULHAM + SURPRISING EDNA – My Mum’s Dream Was To Be An Actress. So I Put Her In A Film +

Mary’s Last Masterpiece +

Appropriations for AI will be jinxed.

copyright symbol

Posted in aging, Art Narratives, female consciousness | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

Tribunal of Souls

Photograph taken in Rome near Piazza della Repubblica

Feltrinelli’s book store, towards Piazza della Repubblica, Roma

When we go to Feltrinelli’s at Piazza della Repubblica, I immediately head for the English language section. That’s where I discovered Donato Carrisi’s “The Lost Girls of Rome” (2011), the English translation of Carrisi’s “Il Tribunale delle Anime”. Carrisi became well known for his international best selling thriller, “The Whisperer” (“Il Suggeritore”).

“The Lost Girls of Rome” is a murder mystery with many stories within stories. Such as that of Sandra, a forensic photographer with Rome’s police department. She is in mourning as her husband died a few months earlier in mysterious circumstances and now she wants some answers. Sandra wants to know the truth and the truth is in Rome.

It’s an interesting read with a good enough pace. And it even taught me a few things:

colored drawing of two dogs and a rainbow

1. Dogs are colorblind so they can’t see rainbows.

2. There’s a difference between the footprints of someone walking with those of someone running. If a footprint is deeper at the toes, the person was running.

3. In insane asylums, patients’ heads are shaved to avoid getting fleas.

colored drawing of a woman in a confessional confessing to a priest

4.The penitenzieri are members of a secret sect that initiated in the 12th cen.  They are profiler priests who data mine confessional texts and then place them in a secret archive of evil. These priests then morph from priest profiler to priest detective. Once the solution to a crime is discovered, these priests find a way to communicate the information anonymously to the authorities.

colored drawing of  a church facade

5. “The Tribunal of Souls” refers to the Museum of the Souls of Purgatory inside the Church of the Sacred Heart of Suffrage facing the Tiber. In 1807, a fire destroyed part of the church. The priest, Victor Jouet, noticed an image of a face on the wall behind the altar created by the flames. Intrigued, Jouet decided that the image had been created by the soul of a man on his way to purgatory. He was convinced to the point of searching for other images he believed had been made by souls begging to have someone pray for them and minimize their time with the flames. Jouet was able to collect various scorched images he believed had been made by the dead wanting to go to heaven. They are on permanent display inside the church.

Colored drawing of
 Bernini's elephant at Piazza Minerva with Benedictine monks

6. Not far from the Pantheon is the church of Santa Maria sopra Minerva. “Sopra Minerva” translates as “above Minerva” because, in 1280, the church was built on top of an ancient temple dedicate to the goddess Minerva.

In front of the church is a statue of an elephant with an obelisk on its back. The obelisk was found in the gardens of the Dominican convent close by. It was originally brought to Rome by Emperor Diocletian to decorate Minera’s temple. The Pope wanted to put the obelisk upright and asked Bernini to find a solution. Bernini put the obelisk on an elephant’s back. He had deliberately positioned the elephant with its back turned to the nearby Dominican monastery in a mocking reference to the friar’s obtrusiveness.

colored drawing of a man holding up many masks

7. The Syndrome of Fregoli or Fregoli Delusion is a rare neurological disorder in which a person mistakenly believes that different people are really just one single person who is able to radically change his appearance. It is a problem of misidentification.

The syndrome was named after Leopoldo Fregoli (1867-1936) was an Italian Quick-Change artist. He had the amazing capacity to totally change his appearance and in a very short time. Fregoli was so talented that when, in 1898 while performing in Rome, Eleonora Duse who was in the audience yelled out “bravo Fregoli” and subsequently expressed the desire to meet him. Or at least that‘s what Fregoli writes in his autobiography.

photograph of drawings and crayons on a table with a book

-30-

Related: THE LOST GIRLS OF ROME review +  Of Obelisks and Pachyderms: Bernini’s Elephant in Piazza della Minerva + Museo delle anime del Purgatorio + Museum of the Holy Souls in Purgatory, a collection of objects supposedly singed by the hands of souls in purgatory + Apostolic Penitentiary +

colored drawing of a woman praying

Appropriations for AI will be jinxed.

copyright symbol

Posted in Books, Roman Diary, Rome/Italy | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

A DIY Tour of Parioli

It’s Palma‘s fault. Reading her biography (“La regina di quadri, vita e passioni di Palma Bucarelli” by Rachele Ferrario) made me wonder about the effects of Fascism on a woman’s image of herself and on the possibility of her ever feeling self-actualized. This curiosity has led to more biographies and more desire to explore. That’s why this DIY tour. I wanted to see where these people had lived and worked.

For this tour, only people living in the general area of Parioli, a neighborhood not far from our own, were chosen. These people were anti-fascists involved in the arts.

Parioli.

As prime minister, Mussolini activated a series of building projects based on his vision of returning to the grandeur of ancient Rome. Mussolini wanted to created A Third Rome (la terza roma). He believed the main way of achieving this was by constructing as much as possible. Like the Romans.

Mussolini worked with fascists architects who were into Rational Architecture—no frills, just sleek minimalistic concrete structures. But just to jazz things up a bit, sometimes ancient classical features like columns were included. Parioli, a neighborhood highly embellished with trees, was developed specifically to suggest elegance. During fascist reign, high ranking political figures and state functionaries lived at Parioli. Even today, it’s still a conservative neighborhood.

Although the buildings look old to us today, when the people referred to below moved into them, they were new and trendy. Anti-fascists were forced to live swallowed up by fascist aesthetics.

I Looked In My Coffee And Who Did I See? Me!

1. Anna Garofalo , via Panama 79

Anna was a feminist and journalist who worked for the newspaper “Il Mondo” until the fascists closed it down. In 1944, Anna conducted a radio transmission entitled “Parole di una donna” (words of a woman). Her guests inclued many women in the arts such as Palma Bucarelli, Alba de Cespedes, and Sibilla Aleramo.

the tree


I Looked In My Coffee And Who Did I See? Me!

2. Massimo Bontempelli and Paola Masino, Via Liegi 6

Massimo Bontempelli was an Italian writer who was influencial in developing Italian magical realism. He spent time in Paris as a journalist in the early 1920s. Here he became mesmerized by the new French avantgarde and dabbled in surrealistic esperiments with Savinio and de Chirico. Bontempelli subsequently settled in Rome and became freinds with Pirandello. He separated from his wife and later developed a relationship with Paola Masino, 30 years his junior.

In the early 1920s, Bontempelli was dedicated to fascism. But by the 1930s, he was totally burned out on it. So much so that he was kicked out of the party and given a death sentence. This forced both Bontempelli and Paola to go into hiding.

Paola, much younger than her husband, collaborated with Bontempelli while in Paris. The couple frequented many French and foreign intellectuals. Paola was friends with Josephine Baker and Kiki de Montparnasse.

Once back in Rome, Paola focused on various projects including collaborations with the RAI, translations, as well as pursuing her Appunti notebooks project.



I Looked In My Coffee And Who Did I See? Me!

3. Maria and Goffredo Bellonci, Viale Liegi 52

Goffredo was a journalist and Maria was a writer who, in 1947, co-founded the Strega Prize, one of Italy’s most important literary awards.

In 1944, the couple started hosting a literary salon at their home pictured below. Their desire was to return to a “normal” cultural lifestyle previously made impossible by the fascists.


I Looked In My Coffee And Who Did I See? Me!

4. Alba de Cespedes, Palazzina Salvatelli, Via Eleonora Duse 53

Alba de Cespedes was a writer and activist. Her books are making a comeback and at Feltlrinelli’s there are three of her books translated into English by the incredible translator Anne Goldstein who also translated Elena Ferrante’s “Neopolitan Novels”. And like Ferrante, de Cespedes writes about young women coming of age.

Her grandfather was Carlos Manuel de Cespedes considered the father of the nation of Cuba. Alba felt her participation in politics was a moral obligation.






I Looked In My Coffee And Who Did I See? Me!

5. Alberto and Maria Savinio, Viale Bruno Buozzi 39

Savinio’s real name was De Chirico but since his brother painted, too, he changed his name to Savinio. Savinio met his wife, Maria, in 1925. She was acting in a performance directed by Pirandello at the Palazzo Odescalchi Theater in Rome. Before marrying Alberto, she was Maria Morino and had just recently from being on tour with Eleonora Duse. Both DeChirico brothers painted portraits of Maria.






I Looked In My Coffee And Who Did I See? Me!

6. Palma Bucarelli, Monti Parioli, via Ximenes 12

For years Palma Bucarelli, director of GNAM (Galleria Nazionale di Arte Moderna), lived in an apartment located inside the gallery. Although she would have continued working until she dropped dead, Palma was forced to retire in 1975. Nevertheless, for several years she continued to live at the gallery but was forced out of there, too. No longer able to live in her beloved gallery, Palma moved to this property where she lived the final years of her life. It’s said the house was full of boxes as she just didn’t feel the need or desire to unpack.

I don’t know what floor she lived on but I would imagine the one with the terrace as she loved dogs and always seemed to have one.


The houses in this area tend to have many windows and balconies.

It was really difficult to take fotos of the entire building. I tried to step back as much as possible and wound up in someone’s drive way. The friveway had been patched so much that it reminded me of the abstract and informal art Palma was so focused on.


This is the Galleria Nazionale di Arte Moderna that Palma loved so much. For 30 years she lived and worked here. The entrance to her apartment is in the back of this huge structure accessible by via Gramsci.

My driver

I Looked In My Coffee And Who Did I See? Me!

7. Elsa Moranti and Alberto Moravia , Via Giovanni Sgambati 9

This street was named after the composer Giovanni Sgambati, Regina Margherita’s favorite composer. Alberto Moravia grew up on via Sgambati and later would live there with his wife, the writer Elsa Morante.



foto of a building with cars parked infront of it

Below, the Moravia house is on the left and right across the street is the park.

foto of the left part of a house and the stone gate to a park

I Looked In My Coffee And Who Did I See? Me!

8. Titiana Maselli, via Porta Pinciano 4

Titiana was an artist and scenographer. her dad was an art critic and her brother, Francesco Maselli, a well-known movie director. In 1945, Titiana married the artist Toti Scialoja. In the early 1950s, she went to New York to see what was happening. For awhile she was interested in Futurism then in Pop Art.

Titiana’s first important exhibit was at Irene Brin‘s L’Obelisco in 1945.



I Looked In My Coffee And Who Did I See? Me!

After the tour, we went to Feltrinell’s for some Book Binging. It was perfect scooter weather, too.

The British School at Rome situated in the Belli Arte area not far from GNAM.

A Silly Selfie in front of GNAM…I’m not sure but I believe the big metal ring in the background is the work of Arnaldo Pomodoro.

From the scooter, the red sign indicating Feltrinelli’s is visible. For more about Feltrinelli’s and why it’s important, read my post. Feltrinelli’s Zhivago.

Piazza della Repubblica is in the background.

Aula Ottagona, ex Planetario, was once part of the Baths of Diocletian. It was used as a planetarium in the past.

-30-

WordPress is not collaborating today. For some reason, the margins are wacko and it’s difficult to make corrections….sorry.

Appropriations for AI will be jinxed.

copyright symbol
Posted in Art Narratives, Books, Fascist Italy, female consciousness | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 4 Comments

Whistleblowers

colored drawing of people blowing whistles

Whistles are cool. They make a high pitched, high frequency sound to get your attention. Whistles have become protagonists in the grass roots movement to protect people from ICE raids. They’re used to alert people when agents are in the neighborhood. A short whistle signifies the presence of ICE agents in the area whereas a long whistle signifies that ICE is making arrests .

Synergy and Solidarity can save us. So why not get a whistle?

-30-

Related: How plastic whistles are becoming an anti-ICE resistance tool in Chicago + The sound of whistles: Chicago neighborhood leads the way in ICE resistance + Hear That Whistle? That’s ICE Resistance From Chicago To Charlotte

Posted in Art Narratives, Synergy and Solidarity | Tagged , , | Leave a comment