Villa Caffarelli Day

After days and days of rain, when the sun finally comes out again, it’s time to play. Our playground today was Villa Caffarelli and its current exhibition, “La Grecia a Roma” (Greece in Rome).

I got there early and when I’m early, I take pictures.

foto of church on hill, Santa Maria in Aracoeli, with steps leading up

The church at the top of this demanding flight of stairs is Santa Maria in Aracoeli aka St. Mary of the Altar in Heaven. It’s a Franciscan church and sits on the highest part of the Capitoline Hill.

Santa Maria in Aracoeli, steps leading up, and Piazza del Campidoglio

2025 was the year of the Jubilee. Also known as the Holy Year, it is celebrated every 25 years.  As many tourists were expected to come, major maintenance projects were started. Some were completed on time, some were not.

In the foto above, a bit of the Vittoriano (Altare della Patria) can be seen with the scaffolding still up.

To the right is the ramp of stairs leading to Piazza del Campidoglio, a public square designed by Michelangelo. Facing the square are the Capitoline Museums founded by Pope Sixtus in 1471.

In the back is a building that looks like a Christo installation because it wears the protective covering used during remodeling. The building is the Palazzo Senatorio with its double stairway.

The monumental stairs leading up to the church and to the piazza are known as cordonata. A cordonata is a sloping road interrupted at regular distances by low steps in the form of transversal stripes made of stone or bricks.

foto of the piazza Aracoeli with cypress and umbrella pine trees

Piazza d’Aracoeli

foto of a building, the Palazzo Pecci-Blunt

Here we are at Piazza d’Aracoeli. The building in the background was once the home of Contessa Anna Laetitia Pecci Blunt aka Mimì.

In 1929, the Pecci-Blunts decided to spend more time in Rome and bought the palazzo at Piazza Aracoeli 3. It became a cultural hub for intellectuals, musicians, and artists. Mimì also hosted a series of concerts inviting musicians such as Stravinsky and Rubinstein to perform.

Mimì was a major art patron in Rome. That is, until she and her family were forced into an awkward situation because of the racial laws imposed by the fascist regime.

foto of sign saying Palazzo Fani Pecci Blunt

However, before leaving Rome, Mimì accomplished quite a bit. In 1935 she opened the avant-garde Galleria della Cometa.

Back in Rome in 1958, Mimì also initiated the Teatro della Cometa located nearby on via Teatro di Marcello. The theater has recently been resusitated by Maria Grazia Chiuri, ex creative designer for Dior.

foto of the piazza d'Aracoeli

Piazza d’Aracoeli

foto of a shadow

Shadow Selfie

foto of piazza d'Aracoeli with its many trees

Piazza d’Aracoeli

foto of Piazza d'Aracoeli looking towards Piazza Venezia

Piazza d’Aracoeli looking towards Piazza Venezia. Here is an important bus terminus aka capolinea. The new Metro line C is under construction with a stop here, Venezia.

foto of il Vittoriano monument

This building has various names. It’s known as the “Altare della Patria” (altar of the homeland), the monument to Victor Emmanuel II, and as the Vittoriano.

In the background are two cupolas as well as the top of the Trojan Column. One cupola is that of Santa Maria di Loreto al Foro Traiano (1585). And I believe the other cupola to be that of Santissimo Nome di Maria al Foro Traiano (1751).

foto of Fontana di Piazza d'Aracoeli

Fontana di Piazza d’Aracoeli

fotos of three buildings facing piazza d'aracoeli

In the distance, the Pecci-Blunt Palazzo.

foto of a road going up a slop with il Vittoriano in the background

The road connecting Villa Caffarelli to the main street, via del Teatro di Marcello, is much easier than taking all those stairs.

foto showing partial views of il Vittoriano, the church of Aracoeli, and Capitoline museum

A collage of architectuaral stiles and times.

fotos of steps leading to Piazza del Campidoglio

The cordonata that leads directly to Piazza del Campidoglio.

foto of Museo Capitoline

A view of one of the Capitoline museums. In the center is an equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius.

foto of entrance to Piazza del Campidoglio

Entrace to Piazza del Campidoglio.

foto of the ticket booth in the piazza

The Ticket Booth

foto cobblestone road leading to an arch

The arch indicates the entrance to Villa Caffarelli.

From the ramp there is so much to see. Like the cypress shadows on the wall. It was near noon and the shadows were aggressive.

foto of the colossal of Constantine

The Colosssus at Villa Caffarelli.

In the garden of Villa Caffarelli is a full-scale reconstruction of the Colossus of Constantine. The project was sponsored by the Prada Foundation.

info


Villa Caffarelli dates back to the 16th cen when the emperor gave Ascanio Caffarelli a piece of land on the Capitoline Hill. Here Caffarelli levelled the land so he could build a home.

map of ancient rome

The exhibit “Greece in Rome” retraces the encounter between two major civilizations. This encountered helped shape Western tastes and aesthetics.

interior of villa caffarelli

You enter here….

statue of Hercules with a club

A statue of Hercules. It’s not difficult to recognize Hercules in art as he generally carries a club and wears a lion’s skin.

young woman taking a foto of a partial head

Image appropriation.

a row of terracotta heads

Some heads resist time better than others.

two marble busts and a young woman with a cell phone

They were gossiping about her.

fragment of a frieze with men riding horses

Fragment of a Frieze

drawing of a capital

Didactic Drawing…what kind of column is this?

drawings of columns

Characteristics of Roman Architecture: Arches, Columns, and Innovation

roof tiles

Roman Roof Tiles

marble statue of Niobid

Niobide

Niobids were Niobe’s children who were slain because Niobe had a big mouth and bragged about all the children she had compared to Leto. Leto’s sons, Apollo and Artemis, were not happy about Niobe dissing their mom. So, to punish her, they killed her kids. All 14 of them.

This is a story about hubris…Niobe’s because she felt the need to brag and Leto’s boys who felt they were so important that they had the right to kill someone simply for an unconsiderate thought.

architectural elements and columns

Greek Architectural Terra Cotta

architectural composition with columns

Ionic Columns

statues with slide show

In the main room, there were various displays but they were embellished by a multimedia show projected on the back wall. The projection was big and animated and got people’s attention.

statues with slide show

See how all the people seem interested? I get easily bored with multimedia projections mainly because I don’t like standing in one place for an extended period of time.

Notice the ceiling’s “soffitto a cassettoni” known as coffers in English.

statues with slide show

The image projected represents Teatro Marcello and shows columns of the Porticato d’Ottaviana as well.

statues with slide show

Holes.

So why are there so many statues with holes?

“Dying Niobe” statue and young woman hiding a smile

room with green walls and lost of statues

So many goddesses missing their heads.

foto of someone taking a foto of two statues

Gioco dell Ephedrismos

The Game of Ephedrismos. An ancient Greek game, it had two parts. In the first, a stone was placed on the ground then players threw stones at it to see who get closer. Like darts with rocks. Who had more hits won. The loser had to have his eyes covered then piggy back the winner until they arrived at the original stone.

Ephedrismos

marble funerary stele

Detail from a funerary stele.

headless Greek statue of a woman

Headless.

Romans Cleverly Used Interchangeable Heads on Their Statues…In ancient Rome, it was possible that a statue was deliberately defaced to obliterate that person’s presence. so some sculptors designed statues with interchangeable heads.

Greek torso statue

Handless

funerary stele relief

Fragment of a funerary stele found in the area of Piazza Barberini.

statue of a lion's head next to a stele with a man riding a horse

Lion’s head

statue of a dying Niobide

Another Dying Niobide

woman in a room with wall paintings and marble objects

The wall paintings are actually wallpaper.

more funerary art

Fake frescoes but real stelae and vase

Roman funerary art

statue of a lion

The Lion

statue of a lion missing his tail

And the lion lost his tail.

marble funerary stele representing a woman holding a dove

Funerary stele indicating a woman holding a dove.

Woman reading s book with her pet under the chair

the head of Athena made from Parian marble

Athena’s head found at Frascati. It’s made from Parian marble.

a ram's head

Ram’s head

The ram was a symbol of strength.

three people looking at two statues

The observers.

two marble statues that are just the same

Prohibited.

I was trying to take a foto of the two statues above when one of the guards came over to me and, in a very nice way, told me that it was prohibited to photograph those two statues. Why? I asked since there seemed no problem in photographing everything else. Because, he replied, they were on loan from a collector and the collector didn’t want their fotos to be taken.

another funerary stele

Another funerary stele…because, you know, everyone dies.

young woman taking a photo of a marble bust

Effigy.

details from a floral wallpaper

He was just part of the wallpaper.

I had to squat really low (risking not being able to come up again) to take this foto because it was at ground level. But it was just too curious to resist.

marble funerary stele

Funarary Stele

pottery and pottery fragments

Broken pots and their pieces.

Also exhibited were pottery fragments coupled with drawings mimicking the pottery paintings. This made me think of Marija Gimbutas’ book “The Language of the Goddess: Unearthing the Hidden Symbols of Western Civilization”. Archive offers the possiblity of reading the book online HERE.

pottery drawing with pottery piece

skyphos with meandro

pottery drawing with pottery piece

lekythos with lines

pottery drawing with pottery piece

more vase fragments with designs such as the chequeboard motif

pottery drawing with pottery piece

concentric circles

pottery drawing with pottery piece

fragment with reticulated lozenge decoration

To be continued here: Towards the Octopus and the Giraffes

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Appropriations for AI will be jinxed.

Related: The Torlonia Marbles +

Campidoglio map + map of the area + When in Rome: an artistic obsession with the ancient city + Piazza del Campidoglio +

Fontana di Piazza d’Aracoeli + Piazza d’Aracoeli +

Anna Laetitia Pecci aka Mimì + Anna Laetitia Pecci Blunt ha lasciato a Marlia un archivio creato da lei stessa + GALLERIA DELLA COMETA + Abbiamo visitato in anteprima il rinnovato Teatro della Cometa di Roma rilanciato da Maria Grazia Chiuri +

Recreation of the Colossus of Constantine installed in Rome + Colossal head of Constantine +

The Caffarelli Palace and Terrace + Palazzo Caffarelli, Rome +

The Language of the Goddess by Marija Gimbutas on Archive, read for free.

Excavation in block with skeleton near the bathroom.

P.S. Unfortunately, I am having problems with WordPress. It keeps changing my settings and my layout without my permission.

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Piazza Barberini

for Paola and Anna Rita

When a friend you haven’t seen in years is in town and wants to meet you at Piazza Barberini, you say “Of course!”

It was a cold but sunny day and I took Bus 63 that went directly to the piazza. In my anxiety to arrive on time, I got there 30 minutes “in anticipo”. But that was great as there were things in the neighborhood I needed to see.

photo of the Triton Fountain in Rome

The focal point of Piazza Barberini is the Triton Fountain aka Fontana del Tritone. Commissioned by Pope Urban VII, the fountain was designed by Bernini.

In the center of the fountain is a statue of Triton, a minor sea god. He is presented as a merman kneeling on a huge shell. The Triton’s head is thrown back so he can drink water from a conch and then spit it out creating squirts of water shooting towards the sky.

detail foto of Triton Fountain showing bees

The Triton and his shell are sustained by four dolphins’ tails. Created in travertine around 1642, the statue includes the classic heraldic three bees of the Barberini family. All over Rome, these bees can be seen indicating just how powerful the Barberini family was.

Pope Urban, who commissioned the fountain, was from the Barberini family, Rome’s nobility that gained much power in the 17th century. The Barberini, originally from Tuscany, were patrons of the arts and commissioned much to ensure that their presence was felt. They understood the importance of cultural hegemony.

A photo of the Fontana dei Tritone at Piazza Barberini in the 1800s

A photo of the Fontana dei Tritone at Piazza Barberini in the 1800s —source

Hans Christian Andersen lived right around the corner from the fountain (at via Sistina 104). Andersen was from Sweden where folklore was full of mermen, dangerous creatures that abducted women and forced them into marriage. Andersen walked passed this kneeling merman daily. He was very intrigued by it and, once back in Sweden, wrote “The Little Mermaid” (1837), a story about a mermaid princess who sacrificed her voice and legs for love.

foto of 
Piazza Barberini looking towards via Tritone
Piazza Barberini looking towards via Tritone

A rear view of the fountain that faces via Tritoni, an important street in the center of Rome that connects via del Corso to Piazza Barberini. Past the piazza, the street seems to morph into via Barberini whereas via Sistina past the piazza is via delle Quattro Fontane. At no. 13 is Palazzo Barberini.

foto of sampietrini

Sampietrini is the name given for Rome’s cobblestone pavements. Here they completely cover the piazza.


Margaret Fuller (1810-1850) was the first American female war correspondent. She was sent to Italy to report on the progress of the unification of Italy. Before Europe, Margaret was heavily involved with the American transcendentalism movement.

While in Italy, Margaret, as a journalist, moved around a lot. But for awhile she was based in Rome. One address for her was Piazza Barberini 2.

view of Piazza Barberini 2

Piazza Barberini 2

In this photo, the commemorative plaque for Margaret Fuller is easier to see. Margaret collaborated with Cristina di Belgioso, a woman active in the move towards the Risorgimento, the unification of Italy. Margaret was also friends with Florence Nightingale who, at the age of 28, was in Rome accompanying Mr and Mrs Bracebridge.

photo with commemorative plaque for Margret Fuller

Years later, in 1871, Louisa May Alcott and her sister, May, lived in this same building. In “Little Women”, Louisa writes “Rome took all the vanity out of me, for after seeing the sonders there, I felt too insignificant to live, and gave up all my foolish hopes and despair.”

No doubt the young men entering the building (probably going to a RB&B) have no idea as to its history. It was here that Alcott wrote “Little Men”.

foto of piazza barberini

The red arrow indicates Margaret Fuller’s building. And, turning right on the corner, you immediately find yourself on via Sistina, once called via Felice (Happy Street). Via Sistina, tahat goes from the Spanish Steps to Piazza Baberini, was a popular street and many foreign artists and writers lived there.

Galleria Obelisco, via Sistina 146

Luigi Rossini, via Sistina 138

Nikola Gogol, via Sistina 126

Hans Christian Andersen, via Sistina 104

Franz Liszt, via Sistina 113

Amelia Curran, via Sistina 64

Bertel Thorvalsen, via Sistina 48

foto of a small grocery store

This is via Sistina 146 where the gallery L’Obelisco once existed. It’s difficult for me to understand how such an important gallery has been so easily forgotten. At least a commemorative plaque could be placed on the building.

photo of entrace to a small grocery store

This is how the space that was home to L’Obelisco gallery looks today with its Andy Warhol vibe. However, L’Obelisco, established in 1946 was an important trendsetter for modern art and for promoting contemporary artistic activity. It helped in the much needed modernization of Italy after the war.

facade of L'Obelisco

The above photo of the gallery facade was taken in the mid40s or 50s and is in the collection of GNAM. Source: Irene Brin, Gaspero del Corso e la Galleria L’Obelisco, Drago, Roma 2018, pp. 204 – 2015 found HERE.

The quantity and quality of artists who exhibited at L’Obelisco is astounding. Giuseppe Capogrossi, Alberto Burri, Giorgio de Chirico, Afro, Salvador Dalí, Wassily Kandinski, René Magritte, Alexander Calder,  Mario Sironi, Giacomo Balla, and Gino Severini are just some of the artists who exhibited at the Obelisco during its beginning years.

Furthermore, owner Irene Brin was good friends with Palma Bucarelli, directore of GNAM for 30 years. Bucarelli aquired various paintings from L’Obelisco for the Galleria Nazional di Arte Moderna.

foto of Alexander Calder going into the Galleria L'Obelisco with Gaspare del Corso

Above is a photo of the artist Alexander Calder in 1956 at L’Obelisco where he had a personal exhibition. (foto via Instituto Luce)

Rome is like a giant Matryoshka doll with one discovery hidden inside another.

facade of building on via sistina, rome

At via Sistina 138, there is a commemorative plaque for Luigi Rossini (1790-1857), an architect known for his etchings of ancient Roman architecture. He began his antiquities series in 1819.

foto of commemorative plaque for Luigi Rossini

Above is the plaque commemorating Luigi Rossini .

etching of the Triton Fountain in Rome

Luigi Rossini’s etching of the Tritone Fountain dated 1848. Foto from Wikipedia


photo of Chiesa Sant’Ildefonso e Tommaso da Villanova, via Sistina 11, Rome

Chiesa Sant’Ildefonso e Tommaso da Villanova, via Sistina 11. More Baroque. The church was constructed in the 1600s under the supervision of the Order of Augustinian Recollects, the mendicant friars. What’s incredible for me, having grown up surrounded by the Mexican culture, was that the oldest image of the Virgin of Guadalupe arrived in Rome some 350 years ago. It was painted in 1667 in Mexico by Juan de Murcia.

foto of street leading to the Capuchin Crypt

The street leads to Santa Maria della Concezione dei Cappuccini church and its Capuchin Crypt at via Veneto 27.

When, in the 1600s, the friars had to move from their old monastery, they brought along the remains of their deceased friars as well. Three hundred cartloads of bones were then arranged on the walls in a decorative fashion.

foto of bones in Capuchin Crypta

Bones arranged in a decorative fashion at the crypta. Image via Wiki

foto of Hotel Bernini interior

This is the interior of Hotel Bernini where we had coffee. The hotel faces Piazza Barberini and their coffee shop is a nice change from the sidewalk cafes full of tourists. The decor is great but the cappucino is not.

Nietzche, Paul Rée, and Lou Andres-Salomè began an “intellectual” ménage à trois. But, after the initial thrill, Nietzche wanted Lou all for himself and proposed marriage. She said No Way. Crushed, Nietzche locked himself in his room facing Piazza Barberini. Here, with a full view of Bernini’s fountain, Nietzsche began writing “Thus Spoke Zarathustra”. via Freud’s Cat

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Appropriations for AI will be jinxed.

Related:

Mermans and Mermaids + Brio and Bon Ton

Sampietrini The Story of Rome’s Famous Cobblestone Roads + Via del Tritone, Rome +

What Hans Christian Andersen Saw in Rome in 1834 + Tracing the footsteps of Rome’s foreign writers and artists + photo via Sistina 1945 +

Roman Plaques “Roman emperors and popes had a fancy for celebrating their achievements by placing lengthy inscriptions on the monuments of Rome. The longest one was dictated by Emperor Augustus to detail with the preciseness of an accountant his many achievements.
The Italian government which took control of Rome in 1870 introduced the first plaques; they were placed on the walls of buildings where eminent citizens were born or had lived.” +

L’ Obelisco, anni 40 + Irene Brin’s garden + Storia della Galleria Obelisco (1946 – 1981) with catalogues ‘+

Palazzo Barberini +

This is the oldest image of the Virgin of Guadalupe kept in the Vatican + Museo Crypta dei Cappuccini +

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Neighborhood Trees

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Pietro Citati & Cristina Campo

The summer of 1993, I was in Venice for the Biennale. For the train ride back to Tuscany, I’d been given a first-class ticket and eagerly went to my compartment. There was still some time before departure so I sat and looked out the window. On the platform in front of me, I recognized Pietro Citati (1930-2022), a writer best known for his biographies and literary criticism. He’d also written a short memoir on his friendship of 30 years with Italo Calvino

drawing of a woman sitting on a train looking out the window seeing two people

I was rather surprised when Citati entered my compartment. He politely said “Buongiorno” before heading towards the window seat. Once there, he pulled out a notebook and started writing non-stop.

No one else was in the compartment so discreetly observing him was a problem. But he didn’t even notice me (or so I thought) as he was fully immersed in his writing. Every so often he would look up and stare into space. Then, ZAP! The muse was back and he’d quickly start writing again. Meanwhile, I pretended to read as I simultaneously pretended not to look at him. But it was a long ride and thus difficult to ignore one another.

Maybe I was the one who tried initiating a conversation with some comment like how intriguing it was to watch him write with such intensity. Citati’s response was that he’d been afraid of stepping on my feet when passing in front of me to get to his seat.

drawing of a shoe about to step on a foot

Citati talked but with a strong sense of reserve (he was Florentine). However, he did reveal, without ever saying his name, that he lived at Roccamare, was a writer, wrote every morning and walked every afternoon (or was it the other way around?). The area where he lived was near the sea and full of umbrella pines.

When we arrived at the destination, we politely said goodbye and then went our own ways.

book cover showing the profiles of Elsa de- Giorgi and Italo Calvino

Recently I read Elsa de’ Giorgi’s “Ho visto partire il tuo treno” (“I saw your train leave”). Elsa and Italo Calvino were lovers for a while and had many friends in common. Elsa mentions Citati various times. She describes him as having “occhi limpidi pieni di pensiero” (“clear eyes full of thought”).

Elsa, a writer herself, enjoyed organizing encounters at her home. She speaks of the time when Carlo Emilo Gadda came to stay in Rome. Gadda was a well-respected writer from Milano and the writers in Rome were behaving like groupies. Elsa says Citati encouraged her to take good care of Gadda and to make sure his needs were met.

Gadda and Citati became very good friends and for years corresponded. Gadda’s letters to Citati (1957-1969) were published as “Un gomitolo di concause” (“a tangle of contributing causes”). It must have been a very special relationship as, a few days before dying, Gadda asked Citati to read the 8th chapter of “Promessi sposi” to him. Bittersweet.

Elsa’s description of Citati provoked my curiosity. I found my copy of Citati’s “Ritratti di donne” (portraits of women)(1992) and leafed through it until I landed on the poetessa Cristina Campo (1923-1977).

drawing of the Portinari Madonna with baby Jesus, angels, and animals

Citati immediately complains about the woman on the bookcover of Cristina’s “Gli imperdonabili” having nothing to do with Cristina who was more like Hugo van der Goes “The Portinari Triptych” at the Uffizi. Mary is in the center of the triptych dressed in black with long hair floating on her shoulders. She’s kneeling in front of God with her hands folded. Citati also likens Cristina’s face to that of a 13th Cen Tuscan statue (you’d think he’d had a crush on her). Cristina, continues Citati, always emanated a sharp icy Florentine air, illuminated by a perpetually white light.

drawing of a room with an armshair, a desk, and an open window exposing the cypress trees outside

It’s easy to see that Citati was taken with Cristina’s physical presence and the aura she created. She was ephemeral and elusive, intriguing qualities for a man. Citati describes being invited to the room where she was staying in Rome and how Cristina took care to show Citati her elegant furniture, the small worktable, and an 1800s armchair. Everything about the room suggested cleanliness, precision, and asceticism. Cristina asked Citati if her room didn’t remind him of Emily, presumably Bronte.

To better understand Cristina and her poetry, it’s important to know that she was born with a heart defect that made demands on her daily life. Her fragile health kept her from attending a regular school. She studied alone and in isolation. Cristina used her solitude to translate authors like Katherine Mansfield, Virgina Woolf, Hugo von Hofmannsthal, and Simone Weil. Translating von Hofmannsthal and Weil had a profound effect on Cristina’s psyche and spiritual evolution.

drawing of trees outside a window

Cristina’s real name was Vittoria Maria Guerrini. Her father, Guido, despite his love of music, was a committed fascist who used politics for social and economic mobility. When Mussolini fell, so did he. When German officers took over the convent in Fiesole where Cristina was living with her family, Guido, instead of being irritated by their presence, enjoyed having long conversations with them. Meaanwhile, Cristina worked for the Germans as a translator.

In 1944, British troops liberated Florence. Guido was arrested as a fascist and sent to a prison camp. But once freed, he easily rebuilt his career.

Cristina, a devout Catholic, never hid her fascist connection. Nor did she hide her fear of democracy. Maybe because there’s no such thing as democracy in religion.

drawing of a woman holding a cross surrounded by gollums

In 1955, Cristina moved to Rome, a transition that had a tremendous effect on both her literary and spiritual evolution. For one, she began publishing her poetry and writing scripts for the RAI, Italy’s national radio and TV. And it was in Rome that she met Elèmire Zolla (1926-2002), writer, philosopher, and connoisseur of esoteric doctrines. Zolla’s marriage to the poetessa Mary Luisa Spaziani had recently ended.

Zolla introduced Cristina to mystical thought and esoteric doctrines. He also introduced her to Eastern religions including Zen and Hinduism. He took advantage of Cristina’s enthusiasm for the spiritual to help him write “I mistici dell’ Occidente” (the mystics of the west). And although Zolla was not a card-carrying fascist, his ideas easily aligned with far right and neo-Nazi philosophy. Julius Evola, a right wing intellectual and founder of esoteric fascism, was one of Zolla’s close friends.

drawing of a bookcover with a woman coming out from behind jagged pile of stone

Inside Cristina is an obsession. She burns her religion of form as if on a sacrificial pyre, says Citati. And she uses poetry to express this obsession.

I like the idea of poetry more than poetry itself. Their hermetically sealed meanings alienate me. How can you appreciate something you don’t understand. But let’s take a look at Cristina’s poem “Passo d’Addio” (Farewell Stop):

“neve era sospesa tra la

Notte e le strade

Come il destino tra la mano e il fiore.”

that roughly translated as:

“the snow hung between

The night and the streets

Like a destiny between the

Hand and the flower.”

To read the entire poem (in Italian), go HERE.

two people sitting with a cat covered by snow

Some scholars have interpreted the poem as being about a soul choosing to leave the limitations of worldly experience and human attachment to embark on a solitary and difficult path toward union with the divine. Cristina’s fragile health undoubtably influenced how she perceived life as something ephemeral. And if she was going to die early, she had to prepare her soul for departure.

Cristina hated the Vatican’s liberal reforms and was an activist for the reintroduction of the Latin liturgy. In post-war Florence, she enjoyed publicly praising Mussolini to passersby. Cristina was not at all progressive and detested anything that was modern. She considered the world an ugly place and thus had to look for meaning elsewhere. Such as in fairy tales and religion. Cristina, tormented by existential question, was restless within. And this often makes her sound too self-righteous and condescending.

Cristina could write about historic literature such as Shakespeare and Doctor Zhivago. But she also enjoyed writing about flying carpets and the religious practice of eating God to achieve communion (theophagy).

drawing of St. Anselmo's church on tree lined street

Cristina’s precarious health had simultaneously frightened and conditioned her. She’d chosen to live with her parents to feel more secure. But after the death of her parents, Cristina was so overwhelmed that she left the family home and moved into an apartment nest to the Benedictine Abbey of Sant’ Anselmo in Rome. She lived there until a heart attack ended her life. She was only 53.

Zolla also lived in the same apartment building as Cristina (#3 via Sant’ Anselmo near the Piazza Dei Cavalieri di Malta). In 1970, Zolla wrote the preface to the Italian edition of “The Lord of the Rings”. He portrayed Tolkien as a critic of modern chaos who used fantasy to arrive at the sacred. Zolla’s introduction to Lord was written in such a way that the neo-fascists easily identified with it. Even today, many right-wing politicians are Lord of the Rings fans. Even Italy’s prime minister is a devotee of Middle Earth and interweaves that fantasy in with Italian reality.

drawing of a man wearing a suit sitting at a table huggling a vase of flowers

Tolkien was not at all pleased with his book being used as some kind of Nazi bible. Some claimed that the problem was, in part, the way the book was translated. But probably what was most alluring about Tolkien’s book was that it emphasized traditionalism, a quality very important for the right as it was for Cristina Campo.

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Appropriations for AI will be jinxed.

Related:

bookcover with a woman on cover

Pietro Citati Wikipedia + Citati: “Lessi i Promessi Sposi a Gadda sul suo letto di morte” +

‘The Unforgivable’ and Other Writings by Cristina Campo + Two Faces of Catholic Traditionalism + Cristina Campo e le infinite corrispondenze + Cristina Campo ed Elémire Zolla: mistica e spiritualità nella svolta religiosa dei primi anni Sessanta via cristinacampo.it + Cristina Campo by Jaspreet Singh Boparai + The intransigence of grace. In memory of Cristina Campo, one hundred years after her birth +

Zolla: How The Lord of the Rings became a symbol for Italy’s far-right + Italian Anthroposophists and the Fascist Racial Laws + Prefazione di Elémire Zolla a Il Signore degli Anelli di J.R.R. Tolkien + Elémire Zolla, avversari metafisici nell’orbita del Kitsch +

Mario Luzi e Cristina Campo +

Posted in Art Narratives, Books, Fascist Italy, Rome/Italy | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Mary Cane-Honeysett (1928-2016)

screen shot of Mary Cane Honeysett from youtube

Mary’s Last Masterpiece” is a tender documentary about Mary Cane-Honeysett (1936-2016), a self taught visual artist. At the time of the filming, Mary was 74 and living in Fulham, London, in the same house where she’d lived all her life. Despite her age, Mary had a goal: to participate in the Royal Academy’s summer exhibition. It’s an ideal that gave her life a direction.

colored drawing of a woman painting a canvas

Despite her annual entries, Mary’s paintings were never accepted by the Academy. When her son, Tony, wanted to make a documentary about her, Mary protested saying she didn’t have anything interesting to say and that her house was more interesting than she was. So Tony said, “Well then we’ll make the video about the house” and thus tricked his mom into believing that the film would be about the house.

colored drawing of a woman on her door steps next to a wound wrought iron railing

Mary’s house in Fulham was her anchor. After raising her kids and losing her husband, Mary focused on creating that one yearly painting to submit to the Academy. Her paintings were about Fulham and her neighborhood. She documented shops and buildings that were gradually disappearing to make room for the big and the new.

drawing of a woman sitting on a bus looking out the window

Mary’s efforts to create the painting that would get her into the exhibition are truly inspiring. Despite her age and the difficulties in getting around, she would take her finished paintings all wrapped in butcher paper on a tour of London using public transport just to have them mesured for the right kind of frame. Once the frame was selected, Mary would have it cut then take the wood home to make the frame herself. This meant hauling the wood for the frame as well as the painting itself back home again still using public transport.

colored drawing of an elderly woman carrying a wrapped painting

The year the video was made, Mary didn’t make it into the exhibition and, still using public transportation, had to go retrieve her rejected painting. Nevertheless, although rejected over and over again, Mary stayed true to herself and kept painting and kept entering the Academy competition every year.

Then Mary had a stroke and everything changed. She struggled to paint and when her hands started to tremble too much to keep a brush steady, she gave up trying.

drawing of  two thieves and an elderly woman pushing a pastry cart

But Mary was animated from within. As a young girl, she’d dreamed of being an actress. And, at the age of 81, Mary made her acting debut in “Edna Cloud”, a story about a fictional artist, Edna Cloud, who has robbers break into her house. The video was filmed by one son with the other son (as well as the grandson) participating as an actor. “Edna Cloud” is short, sweet, and amusing. It’s also an indication of how much her sons loved her.  And there’s no art exhibit that can surpass that kind of honor.

Mary’s story is just one more example of how ideals give you a direction.

icon with woman hold an x'd broom

I prefer to paint, she said.

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Related: ART OF MARY CANE-HONEYSETT, PAINTINGS OF FULHAM + SURPRISING EDNA – My Mum’s Dream Was To Be An Actress. So I Put Her In A Film +

Mary’s Last Masterpiece +

Appropriations for AI will be jinxed.

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Posted in aging, Art Narratives, female consciousness | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment